Arriving in Antigua

Arriving in Antigua

“The lazy jacks on the starboard side have failed,” said Jeff in his usual calm voice. “The lines were dragging in the water, so I tied up the ends to the boom.”

The last night at sea was the roughest. My shift was from 1 a.m. to 4 a.m. I crawled into the forward berth to get some sleep before my shift started. Just dragging myself towards the cabin was difficult with the rocking of the boat from the massive waves hitting us broadside. As I lay down on the bunk, the bow of the boat would fly out of the waves and come slamming down, shaking my body preventing any meaningful rest. After two hours spent airborne as I flew about the room, my bruised body had enough punishment. I geared up in my life vest and tether to relieve Jeff early. I hoped he would have better luck in getting some rest in the aft cabin. We would need to be alert to navigate the shoals at the entrance of Falmouth Harbour.

The lazy jacks hold the sail bag vertically so when the mainsail is dropped, it doesn’t fall into the water. “Do you think we’ll be able to drop the mainsail when we get to Falmouth?” I asked.

I remember having the same problem last year. I had replaced the plastic rings that held the lazy jacks with small blocks which seemed to have fixed the problem. I couldn’t remember whether I had fixed both sides of lazy jacks as it meant a trip up the mast….something that always terrifies me.

Jeff yawned, clearly not concerned and headed to his bunk. I glanced at the sails. Our jib was disabled after the brand new halyard failed , leaving only the mainsail to get us to Antigua. Suddenly a 25 knot gust forced the boat to heel over at an alarming angle. The mainsail had only one reef. I needed to reduce sail before we got knocked over again. I went into the boat and woke up Michael. Reefing is always easier with two of us and can be done with out leaving the cockpit.

Sailing at 9 knots would have us in Falmouth in two hours. The boat wobbled through the waves, and the slamming shook intensified. Michael and Jeff, unable to sleep in the turbulence came on deck.

“We are about to round the southern corner of Antigua and head east,” I said. The wind was gusting up to 35 knots. “We should wait until we are in the shelter of Falmouth harbour before we take down the mainsail. It might get blown into the water and get wrapped up in the rudder and keel otherwise.”

“That means we will have to jibe in the strong winds,” said Michael. “I’ll head the boat dead downwind. We’ll wait for a lull in the tempest. On my cue, John, you pull the mainsheet to pull the main in the center, then release it after we jibe.”

The jibe went uneventfully and we rocketed into Falmouth Harbour in the pitch blackness. I remember hallucinating from fatigue, thinking that the white breaking waves were dogs running beside the boat. I struggled to stay awake. Fortunately, Jeff and Michael were of sound mind and guided us into harbour safely. We avoided the shoals at the entrance…… I took over the helm and headed into the wind now we were sheltered from the waves, while Jeff released the main halyard. The mainsail stayed on the bimini and to my relief did not fall into the water. Navigating between several other anchored boats, we set our anchor in nine feet of water and went to bed.

After 10 days at sea, we are anchored safely in Falmouth Harbour, Antigua

Checking into customs later that morning, I ran into Franklin of Antigua sails. He offered to fix my jib. The luff line had torn out when it fell into the water from the force of the waves. “No problem,” he said with a smile.

Ileana, my wife arrived later that day. I felt lucky she had made it. The day before, the WestJet flew over Florida before making the bizarre decision of heading back to Toronto. Something about a space shuttle launch at Cape Canaveral and getting in the way… They re-scheduled the flight for the following day. Maybe sailing to Antigua was easier than flying….

Sea Dream Italian Restaurant

The gear cable on the outboard broke, making ferrying to land impossible. We headed to Jolly Harbour to a dock and for repairs. The marina was empty except for a few sailboats as it was early in the season. Jeff and Michael sent me up the mast to fix the lazy jacklines and feed the jib halyard that had failed.

Hanging on for dear life

The repairs done, the sails are put away

We will pull the boat out of the water for some engine repairs while we fly back to Toronto for the holidays. We will return in January to spend another 3 weeks in Antigua before heading north to St. Martin.

My latest novel now available on www.john-hagen.com

Now available on www.john-hagen.com

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My name is John Hagen. Most of my life has been spent as a surgeon. I needed a change. Change never comes easily….but just like sailing, if you persist you can always head in the right direction…..