It was totally deserted. The massive hotel structure built into the side of the mountain wall was empty. The stone staircase leading up to the guest rooms was covered in leaves, indicating that no one had been up this way for some time. Some of the rooms had been converted into storage facilities piled with chairs and beds that were on end leaning against the wall. This was the Eco lodge that I had heard so much about. There were waterfalls coming from the side of the mountain. The resulting stream had been dammed up into a beautiful natural spring swimming pool. There were lawn chairs on freshly cut lawn with small tables presumably to serve rum drinks. These too were totally devoid of guests. The grounds were indeed spectacular. There were streams of water that could be crossed by beautiful stone bridges. There were beautiful flowers and plants spread out through the property that looked well cultivated. All this beauty and natural surroundings with no one but us to enjoy it.
The Los Haitises is a beautiful park. I had motored solo across the bay of Samana the previous day. After anchoring, I met up with a couple from Sydney BC and had amazing adventure going through caves and mangroves. We had found out from some other sailors that the Eco lodge was worth the trip. We followed up the mangrove river. There were beautiful cranes and other birds that eyed us suspiciously as we made our way up the 2 miles of mangrove lined jungle hoping not to get lost. We found the dock and tied the dinghies.
We hiked up the 2 kms. to the Eco Lodge. It was $6 to enter and another $16 for all you can eat lunch. I have to admit that at first I thought this was a little suspicious and perhaps a money making scam. However, we did get green wristbands and this would allow us into the restaurant so I was a little bit more encouraged that we would actually get to eat. At the anchorage in the bay there were about six other boats and at least half of us were here for the cheap lunch. As sailors often do, we started talking about the places we’ve been and the adventures we’ve had. Jonathan and Claire were on board a 37 foot catamaran. They had spent last season in the Bahamas and were trying to make their way to Grenada this year to avoid hurricane season. Jonathan told a story about how there was a north wind coming and there were twelve sailboats in a lagoon. When the wind picked up, six of the boats drag their anchors and one of the boats, a monohull ended up on the rocks. By morning, the wind had settled and all of the other 11 boats went to offer assistance to the boat on the rocks. They tried things like levering the mast sideways so the keel would come out of the water. A Bahamian launch came into the lagoon and was able to pull the boat off of the rocks. Jonathan hopped on the sailboat and noted that the bilge pump was pumping furiously. When he inspected the front of the hull, there was a 3 foot crack that was just pouring water inside the boat. He remembered watching a video about a boat that had a crack in it like this. They tore up T-shirts and stuffed it into the crack. On the video the leak stopped. He did the same thing for his friend’s sailboat crack and surprisingly, the flow of water stopped. The skipper was able to sail the boat for four hours into Spanish Harbour to get the boat pulled out of the water for repairs. For Jonathan, the most impressive part was the way all the sailors banded together to help their fellow sailors. We spent the next 2 hours telling each other sailing stories all the while filling up our plates with the best cheap lunch on this side of the Caribbean Sea.
I was speaking with Ileana on WhatsApp via Starlink internet later in the afternoon. I was telling her that we were planning to go on an evening adventure in our dinghies through the mangroves and see what kinds of animals we could see at night.
Ileana said, “You’ve had some pretty dumb ideas in the past but this one could be one of the dumbest! I grew up in Guatemala and I know how dangerous mangroves are at night. There are snakes that hang down from the trees just looking for someone like you to eat. There are alligators and caimans that come out at night for dinner. It is possible this may be the last dinghy ride you take!”
We decided against the mangroves after I couldn’t shake the snake image from my mind….. but watched a great sunset from the dinghy.
The next morning, I woke up early and watched the beautiful sunrise on the calm bay. I loaded up the engine from my dinghy onto my stern rail. I then pulled up the dinghy onto the front of the boat and lashed it down. I sent a WhatsApp message to my friends from Sydney BC who were anchored next to me as I was leaving. They sent me a picture as I was pulling up my anchor. They messaged me to look off my starboard bow and I saw the most beautiful pod of dolphins swimming through the water to bid me farewell to one of the most beautiful places on earth.
